Eid mubarak, kol 3am w entum b7er! (Happy holidays!) Every year, on the 10th day of Dhu al-Hijjah (the last month of the lunar Islamic calendar), Muslims around the world celebrate Eid al-Adha. Eid al-Adha is a feast commemorating the willingness of Ibrahim/Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as the ultimate submission to God’s command, before God intervened and provided Ibrahim with a ram to sacrifice in Ishmael’s place. Muslims today often celebrate the Eid by visiting family, slaughtering a goat/sheep/camel (which is then traditionally shared with the poor), and feasting extensively.
For me, the 4-day Eid break provided a perfect opportunity to travel. Originally, a few friends and I had planned a trip to Beirut, Lebanon. But due to the violent protests that erupted there last week in response to the [Syrian-planted?] car bomb that killed 8 people (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-20006389), we had to postpone our trip to Beirut. And that is how I came to be in Amman, Jordan last weekend.
There are some people who do not think that Amman is the coolest city around. Those people are wrong. Amman is a delightful balance of historical flavor and modern convenience – the clean and traffic-free streets are a world away from the chaos and smog of Cairo. (Admittedly, however, the chaos and smog are part of Cairo’s charm.) Amman is spread out across 19 jabals (hills) that display the city’s architecture and many historical landmarks beautifully. But the city’s aesthetic appeal is nothing without mentioning the warmth and hospitality (and diversity!) of the people we encountered throughout our time in Amman. After only two nights in the city, my friend Mary and I had met multiple people who will inshallah (God willing) be lifelong friends. One of the most interesting things about the people we met – beside their being just generally wonderful human beings – was their diversity. 4 out of every 5 people we met were not native Jordanians, but rather Palestinian, Iraqi, and Syrian “refugees” (though they would not identify themselves this way – most introduced themselves to us as “Palestinians/Iraqis/Syrians living in Jordan”).
After two nights in Amman, we headed south to see the infamous city of Petra, considered one of the seven wonders of the modern world. Petra is an ancient city in the middle of the desert, believed to be founded circa 312 BC as the capital city of the Nabataean empire. Petra’s buildings were literally carved out of the massive red rocks that cover the landscape. Walking out of the Siq (the natural rock corridor leading into Petra) to be confronted by Al-Khazneh (pictured below) – an image I had seen so many times before in travel magazines and history books – was a surreal experience.
From Petra, we made the short trip to Wadi Dana (Dana Valley) Nature Preserve– a remote slice of heaven in the southwest corner of Jordan. As an Oregonian, I crave desolate landscapes and wilderness, and Wadi Dana provided just the communion with nature that I needed to recover from the bustle of Cairo. We spent the evening drinking copious amounts of tea and watching the sunset while a friendly Australian couple regaled us with stories of expat life in Saudi Arabia. We slept on the roof under the stars, and woke up to a breathtaking view of rocky canyons and untouched wildlife. In the morning, we ventured on a hike into the valley, where we encountered an unclaimed herd of goats and a group of Bedouins on donkeys who invited us for tea.
These four days in Jordan were truly some of the best days of my life – a tall order since I think I have a pretty good life in general. The genuine hospitality we encountered from the moment we stepped out of the plane has stuck with me, and I hope I will have the opportunity to “pay it forward” in Cairo.